Settimana Santa

It is Settimana Santa. In Sicily that is a really big deal, probably in all of Italy, and as I have been told, each town has its very distinct traditions and rituals. It has been fascinating to see it all, to see these rituals, the same rituals and traditions that Favara has had for hundreds of years. Here are two of the most interesting things I have witnessed:

1. Processione dell’Addolorata: Maria, my host mother, and I went to the high plaza, where the procession was just beginning. The priest was speaking in his low, solemn tone, and a group of helpers, mostly older men who wore maroon ribbons around their necks were holding up a statue of the Madonna, all dressed in black, with the face lit up by neon lights. There was very slow, very solemn tone to everything- the way the priest spoke, the pace of the procession, the response by those walking in the parade, the marching band, playing slow, beautiful Sicilian procession music. A very interesting note on the music: I started recognizing some of the songs, and was scanning my brain to where I would have heard them, then it hit me: It is all music from the Godfather. I was really confused, and asked Maria where this music was from, and she replied that the Godfather used basically only traditional Sicilian procession songs. It was really interesting to find out. Great music, reminded me a lot of the kind of stuff that Beirut does at the music’s simplest form. We walked for about fifteen minutes up the hill to a concrete formation with a big white metal cross, where all of the older priests were waiting, standing in the florescent light, which the whole scene have a very strangely modern mood. The priest spoke for a while, a crowd of the marchers forming around the base of the formation, until he stopped, paused, and said: “banda.” The band began to play another slow tune, and the Madonna was brought to the top of the podium. It was amazing- very ritualistic and dark. Then we turned back, and the whole procession returned to another church, the biggest in Favara, Chiesa Madre. We returned home.

2. Messa di Pasqua: This morning I woke up early to go with my school to church for an Easter Mass. Gerlando didn’t want to come, so slept in. They were taking attendance, but lots of kids would get their name down and bolt. We stood around the front of the church for a while, talking, doing what Italians love to do, standing, talking and smoking cigarettes. No one wanted to be the first to enter, then slowly the groups filed in and sat. It is a pretty modern church, but there is a massive, beautiful mosaic of Jesus surrounded by children above the pulpit. Lots of people were confused why I was there, being non-Christian and all. I explained a few times that I was just interested to see. Interested to see what? they implored. Too difficult to explain, it’s an experience I said. The priest’s helper carried around a beer bottle filled with water to water the plants. I thought that was really funny, and wished I had a camera. Very Favara. The priest spoke for a while, the music teacher from the school sang a bunch of songs, trying to get others to sing, usually to no avail. It lasted about an hour and a half, and when it finished, and I turned around, almost everyone had already left. The church was nearly empty!

Thursday I am going to Grotte, a town nearby, to see another traditional event of some sort with Intercultura. Should be interesting.

Now I am going to the country to cook some food with Sergio, Ditte, and Sergio’s cousin Marco. Then after we are going to the beach, just to walk, eat gelato’s, etc. It is a good way to start of the Easter vacation. Hope all is well. Feeling very excited that it is finally starting to get nice out. My family is in Anguilla, talked to them last night really late, which was nice. Miss everyone, but all is well.

Ciao! Zander